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 ashi, now
known as Varanasi (Benaras), is the
oldest living city in the world. Nobody exactly knows when it was founded.
The city is an amazing mix of houses, bazaars, vegetables & flowers markets, temples, ashrams and community houses, compactly located on
winding labyrinths finally opening up somewhere at the ghats of Ganges.
Bustling with humanity, cycles, scooters, rickshaws and domesticated animals
(cows, dogs, camels... you name it!),
 the narrow lanes are somewhat
unnerving, but always interesting, for the visitor.
This is true for nearly all the old cities in India - where community life is
extremely interwoven and general commuting is on foot; hence the compact
settlements. Cities/Towns were rarely
planned, and seem to have just sprung up around rivers, lakes, temples or forts. Apart
from Varanasi, the temple town of Madurai and the fort town of Jaisalmer are fine examples.
Of course, there are exceptions like Jaipur (internationally recognized as
a masterpiece of town planning), Fatehpur Sikri and Vijaynagar/Hampi.
Calcutta, New Delhi and other cities built during the Colonial rule were well-planned and
widely spread out, but failed to cater to the needs of Indian social
system.
India's architecturally impressive structures can be broadly divided into four
groups:
1. Buddhist Stupas, Chaityas and Viharas
They were the places of Buddhist worship, learning and preaching. Among the earliest surviving manmade structures made in India, they suggest that architecture was in its evolutionary phase - The structures were small and elegant. Yet artistry is clearly visible in superb carvings of
toranas (gateways), pillars and railings.
The stupa at Sanchi is the most intact. So are other Buddhist structures at Sarnath, Kushinagar, Rajgir, Amravati and
Bodhgaya.
Chiseled out of the mountains, the 2 BC Ajanta Caves (a World Heritage
Site) have superb murals.
The monasteries at Leh, Rumtek, Ghoom and Tawang in
the Himalayas are the still-in-use pieces of architecture.
2. Hindu and Jain temples
Temples were not
just places of worship; they
also served (and to a large extent, still do)
as social centers, where
ceremonies from weddings to dances to communal feasts took place, and were the only outlets for artists and sculptors
to express their creativity. Due to the unwritten nature of Indian
history, much of the past was garnered by studying the sculptures and
painting in temples, which depicted the lifestyle of that era. For
instance,
 the erotic sculptures of temples of
Khajuraho and Halebid illustrate
the liberal attitude of the society then.
One very notable feature of Indian temples is that howsoever big they may be,
they always give an impression of
fineness, intimacy and liveliness - even when there is no crowd around. Every space is
filled with fine details. The emphasis is always over the face of the idol which is always expressive. The main idol at
Elephanta caves is one very fine example.
Temples in India can be very interesting. Some are open only for a few
hours a day, others round-the-clock. Some maybe be the center of the city,
others far removed from human settlement and at most unusual locations. A temple at Gangasagar comes out of Ganges only once a year on January 14!
3. Tombs, forts, palaces and mosques
The
Mughal invaders brought with them a completely different building concept -
 of majestic structures with extreme formality and symmetry in design and layout. Biggest, highest and
most imposing used to be the criterion. Carving figures was forbidden; so trellis, domes and minarets came in. Persian designs and formats were
used extensively. While the Taj Mahal needs no introduction, other mausoleums
and mosques are no less. The cenotaphs (chhatries) built by Hindus were also inspired from tombs
-
 though they were less formal, but more ornamental.
A sense of insecurity during the medieval period led to construction of massive
forts. The Mughal technique of fort construction was perfected by the
Rajput rulers of Rajasthan who built awe-inspiring, yet highly interesting, strategically
located forts. Innovative techniques, best evident in Hyderabad's Golconda
fort,
to counter enemy offensive were incorporated in the forts.
Huge, yet private, Indian palaces are extremely ornamental and theme-oriented
with sheesh(mirror)
mahals, badal(cloud) mahals, chitra(paintings) mahals and so on. The Islamic influence
added concepts like Diwan-e-aam, Diwan-e-khas, well laid out gardens and separate chambers for women known as zenana.
Palace construction extended over several generations, with each king adding his
own personal stamp. The intricate palaces of Rajasthan are rightly considered
the epitome in luxury.
4. Colonial buildings
If Buddhist structures are
serene, Hindu ones
lively, Islamic ones majestic,  then the colonial ones are simply grand.
Columns, vistas, colonnades, corridors, high
ceilings, vast halls and sweeping staircases were important features. Extremely well-planned, the designs were driven by geometric rules.
Colonial layout was not restricted to buildings
alone - entire cities were designed so. Interestingly, Edward Lutyen's design of New Delhi incorporated several Hindu and Muslim features such as kiosks, gardens and canopies. New Delhi, Shimla, Pondicherry, Calcutta and a whole number of hill resorts still evoke the
nostalgia of The Raj... of magnificent structures, huge bungalows, clubs & parties, proud sahibs and,
of course, scandalous mem-sahibs.
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